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  • Fresh Skincare Studio-Regina Thomas

The Low Down: Vitamin C

It seems like in the world of skincare there is always some fancy new "miracle" ingredient. You know what though? There are also a lot of tried and true ingredients that are amazing for your skin. Case in point: Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is known for its many benefits including:

  • Brightening.

  • Lessening the appearance of fine lines.

  • Fighting free radicals (it's an antioxidant).

  • Preventing sun damage.

  • Reversing sun damage (dark spots).

  • Stimulating collagen synthesis.

Vitamin C is one of the ingredients I feel confident adding to everyone's skincare routine, I mean who doesn't need more antioxidants in their life?!

Vitamin C in skincare products can come in varying forms and concentrations. For instance, you may find that your Vitamin C product contains Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitoyl or Ascorbyl palmitate. The primary differences in these ingredients are their potency, whether they are water, oil, or fat soluble (soluble=able to be dissolved in), and how irritating they are to the skin.

Choosing the right form of Vitamin C for your skin is important! Of course you want results, but you also want to avoid irritation!

If you have sensitive skin, look for the ingredient Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. It's water soluble, stable, and gentle on skin, while still being effective.

If your skin is more resilient, look for L-Ascorbic Acid which is pure Vitamin C. L-Ascorbic Acid is quite potent and produces great results, but it's not usually a stable ingredient, so make sure there are other forms of Vitamin C in the product or that it's encapsulated.

What does 'stable' mean with regard to Vitamin C? Basically, if the molecule is stable it will have a longer shelf life and maintain its effectiveness. If the molecule is unstable, it won't have a very long (if any) shelf life and it won't be effective.

Personally, I like to look for Vitamin C serums that have L-Ascorbic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an oil soluble form of Vitamin C. I learned at my Skin Script RX retreat that delivering Vitamin C in this combination is the most effective because the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate protects the L-Ascorbic Acid from deteriorating, so more Vitamin C gets delivered into the skin.

Another thing to keep in mind with Vitamin C is that the skin absorbs it best when delivered with Vitamin E. So be sure to check your product label to ensure both ingredients are included!

When to use Vitamin C? I like to use my Vitamin C serum in the morning because I also use a Vitamin A serum, which is used at night. If you're not using a Vitamin A, or another exfoliating serum, then Vitamin C can be applied morning and night! The order of application should be: cleanse, tone, serum, treatment (Vitamin C!), moisturizer, SPF.

A wise woman once told me, "Vitamin C is the B.L.T. of skincare--brighten, lighten, and tighten!" I couldn't agree more!



Skin Script RX 15% Vitamin C $36

From Skin Script RX | INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT | Vitamin C/Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most skin-related research of any form of vitamin C. Ascorbic acid also helps skin’s surface defend itself from environmental stressors, lessening the effects of exposure to the elements. Vitamin C can help your skin look younger for longer, not only by stimulating collagen production, but by evening out your skin tone and brightening your complexion as well.

Skin Script’s Vitamin C/Green Tea Serum restores and revitalizes the skin with antioxidants and peptides. It nourishes and supplements the skin with moisture and vitamins for ultimate results. The L-ascorbic acid is encapsulated with Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin to preserve shelf life.

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